Manchester
Cadence & Coat
The frame decides the finish.
Frame and fork work in cured powder, two-pack paint and cast vinyl. Every commission is stripped to bare metal, coated, and rebuilt with the bar tape, saddle and rims chosen to match — so the bike is one object rather than a frame with parts on it.
- 180
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Coverage
What gets coated
Frame only, frame and fork, or the full build with the rims. Every one is stripped to bare metal first, and the days in the booth are on the line.
Frame only
Cured powder, one colour
Frame stripped to bare metal, coated and cured, decals cleared over if you want them kept.
Frame and fork
Cured powder, frame and fork
Frame and fork in the same coat, so the two never read as different colours in daylight.
Two-pack paint, frame and fork
Hand-masked two-pack paint with a clear coat, for a colour powder cannot reach or a fade across the tubes.
Full build
Frame, fork and rims
Frame, fork and rims in one scheme, wheels stripped and rebuilt, bar tape and saddle matched to the frame.
Recent builds
Frames through the booth
Frame Triangle
Frame & fork · steel road
Bone Commuter
Frame only · city
Ochre Track Build
Full bike · track
“Every piece begins as a conversation.”
Questions
Before you write
What the warranty covers, and what it does not
A cured powder coat is warranted for five years against flaking and chalking, and a cast film for three against lifting and cracking. Neither covers a chip from a stone, a clamp mark from a workstand, a solvent cleaner, or a frame that was bent and straightened before it came to us. Bring the bike back within twenty days of collection for the first check-over and the warranty stands.
Powder or paint — which should I have?
Powder is tougher and cheaper to live with, and it is what most frames get. Paint reaches colours and fades powder cannot, and it is the choice when the frame carries a name or a scheme. We will say which one your frame suits rather than which one we would rather spray.
Do you strip the frame first?
Always. A coat over an old finish fails at the edges of the old finish, and a frame that has been blasted is the only way to see what the tubes are doing underneath.
How do I wash a frame and fork?
By hand, with a soft mitt and a pH-neutral shampoo, then rinse and dry with a microfibre. No brush wash, and no pressure washer held near a lug, a cable guide or the fork crown — a jet lifts film at an edge and opens a stone chip in a coat. Wax is fine on powder and on paint. Nothing abrasive goes near the film.
How long before the frame can be washed?
A week for the film, which is still settling onto the tubes. Two-pack is still hardening for a fortnight after it leaves the booth, so wipe it with a damp cloth until then. A cured powder coat is set in the oven and takes a wash as soon as the build is back together, but the film on the fork still wants its week.
Does the coat come off again?
The film does. It peels in an afternoon and leaves sound paint on the tubes, which is why the frame is photographed before anything is laid on it. A powder coat or a two-pack is not removable in that sense: taking either off means stripping the frame back to bare metal and coating it again, and that is a booth job quoted as one.
The commission
Tell the studio what you have in mind
The frame, the fork and the finish you have in mind, plus a photograph of the bike as it stands. A powder colour is chosen from the sample card at the booth.